Georgia ~ Walking in the Greater Caucasus

Georgia’s geographical position at the heart of the Greater Caucasus defines its history and culture, placing it at the crossroads of Europe, Central Asia and the Middle East. Invaded over the centuries by the Greeks, Romans, Vikings, Mongols, Persians, Ottoman Turks, Russians, Armenians and even the British (in 1919), Georgians have survived with a very strong sense of identity, expressed through their heritage of defensive towers and early stone churches.

A twelve day walking trip in early summer focuses on the superbly scenic Greater Caucasus mountains, with a number of full day walks (6 - 8 hours) taking us up into remote high valleys directly beneath the peaks and glaciers. We see gentians, early irises, lammergeiers and snow finches, encounter shepherds with their huge flocks on the alpine pastures, cross mountain streams and possibly some late lingering snow, and return to comfortable hotels and very good Georgian food and wine each evening.

TRIP ITINERARY

DAY 1

After arriving late in the evening at Tbilisi airport, we have a brief transfer to our comfortable 3 star historic hotel, with views over the fortress of Narikala and the old city.

DAY 2

B, L, D included

We set off up into the Caucasus on the famed Georgian Military Highway, visiting the fortified 17C church at Ananauri, with its interesting Persian-influenced carvings, en route to the ski resort of Gudauri at 2,196 m (where our modest hotel is run by a well-known Georgian mountaineer). An introductory 4 hour walk takes us through swathes of wildflowers (mainly Caucasian endemic species) up to the 12C Fire Cross Tower, with fine views of the surrounding peaks.

DAY 3

B, L, D included

Taking a picnic with us we set off on a 7 hour walk, first gradually climbing 200 m then traversing a ridge with views of the peaks to the north forming the border with Russia. 600 m of descent bring us into the head of a wide valley with a number of stone defensive towers, a few isolated villages and flocks of alpine chough wheeling overhead. We follow a spectacular riverside trail down through the Khada gorge (with scarlet rosefinches and the chance of wallcreeper) to meet our transport and return, uphill, to our hotel.

DAY 4

B, L, D included

We cross the highest pass on the Military Highway, then drive high up a side valley to commence our 7 hour walk from the village of Jutta. A small path leads gradually up into a remote valley, filled with wildflowers and bounded at its head by glacial moraine beneath the snow-covered peaks of Chaukhi mountain - lammergeiers and eagles often patrol overhead - we picnic before retracing our steps. Continuing by road to Kazbegi, our new small hotel is linked to the Institute of Alpine Ecology and has ring ouzels and quails in the gardens.

DAY 5

B, L, D included

Today we undertake one of the classic walks of the Caucasus, passing the 14C Sameba (Trinity) church as we climb up (1,000 m, 8 hours there and back) towards the Gergeti glacier, with magnificent views of the 5,033 m Mt. Kazbegi (first climbed by Douglas Freshfield of the London Alpine Club in 1868). Back down in Kazbegi we visit the museum home of the poet Alexander Kazbegi and have some free time to shop for local woolly socks and wild sheepskin hats from the stalls on the square.

DAY 6

B, L, D included

Heading south on a travelling day, we walk a short section of the old military highway before descending to Mtskheta, at the heart of Georgia’s spiritual identity, where the Royal family converted to Christianity in AD 337, and visit the splendidly sited 6C church of Jvari. A further 3 hour drive takes us east to Kutaisi in central Georgia where we visit the beautifully sited 12C Cathedral of the Virgin, with a fine Byzantine mosaic. Settling into our comfortable guesthouse, we enjoy the hospitality and home cooking of our very friendly Georgian hosts.

DAY 7

B, L, D included

After an early morning walk around Kutaisi to see the market and the ruined 11C Bagrat cathedral, we set off up into the high Caucasus, switching to 4WDs after lunch. The scenery gets ever more spectacular as we climb up into Svaneti, the wildest and most remote region of Georgia, in whose stone towers the country's greatest treasures and icons were always hidden in times of invasion. On reaching Mestia we fit in a 2 hour loop walk 200 m up through forest for views of the 4,710 m twin peaks of Mt Ushba, nicknamed the Matterhorn of the Caucasus. Our boutique hotel rooms have balconies with panoramic mountain views.

DAY 8

B, L, D included

Today’s walk (7 hours there and back) gently climbs 300 m up on an easy path along the beautiful Mestia river valley, with views of the surrounding high peaks en route to the tongue of the Chalati glacier. After a picnic we walk back to Mestia and visit the Museum of History and Ethnography with its fine 9C - 13C manuscript Gospels and early icon collection.

DAY 9

B, L, D included

4WDs take us even higher into the mountains to Ushguli, reputedly the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe at an altitude of 2,200 m, filled with 11C towers and a UNESCO World Heritage site. We visit the museum in one of the towers before a 6 hour walk along a wide valley with gentians in the meadows and (cloud permitting) fine views of Georgia's highest mountain, 5,068 m Shkhara.

DAY 10

B, L, D included

This morning we walk (3 hours) beside the Mulkhura river and follow a good track gradually rising through the tower-dotted and flower-filled alpine pastures. We start our return drive back down the spectacular mountain road, picnicking along the way, and switch back to a normal minibus as we near Kutaisi. We stay the night again in the same welcoming and comfortable guesthouse - time to try some chacha, home made firewater!

DAY 11

B, L, D included

Driving east, we visit the enormous 11C cathedral in Mtskheta and have a trout lunch by the river before continuing into Tbilisi. We have a short city tour, including a visit to the National Museum to see the stunning prehistoric gold collections, and some free time to explore the restored caravanserai area with its carpet shops, traditional baths, mosque, and synagogue. Our farewell dinner on the rooftop terrace of our hotel is memorable both for the excellent Georgian food and for the floodlit views of Tbilisi.

DAY 12

B included

We transfer to the airport after an early breakfast.

Price includes:

All accommodation for Days 1 through 12 on a twin shared basis

All meals (with wine/beer at lunches and dinners) as listed in the daily notation

All land transportation in a private vehicle with drivers (minibus and 4WDs) as described except during free periods

All entrance and sightseeing fees as described except during free periods

Services of an English-speaking local guide plus Kudu Travel tour leader

Gratuities for hotel and restaurant staff

Visa and Health Requirements

Visitors from the EU and USA currently require a valid passport, but not a visa, for entry to Georgia. If you are a national of any other country, please check visa regulations with your nearest Embassy of Georgia.

At present there are no specific and compulsory health requirements for entry to Georgia, but you may wish to consult your doctor (at least 6 weeks before you travel) about updating your immunisation against Hepatitis A, polio, tetanus and typhoid, or anything else they consider advisable. You may also wish to check the advice given to travellers by the Department of Health and the FCO.

Insurance

It is essential, and a condition of booking, that you protect yourself with a suitable travel insurance policy as soon as you book a trip. Follow this link for a quote for a policy available to UK residents.

If you are already insured or a non-UK resident, please inform us of your policy at the time of booking.