Croatia: Istria Truffle Trails

‘Like Tuscany 30 years ago’ - for anyone nostalgic for Tuscany as it once was, before being discovered by mass tourism, Istria, the heart-shaped peninsula at the top of the Adriatic, is a delightful discovery. Roman, Venetian and Italian for much of its history, it is hardly surprising that gastronomy features so highly in the Istrian lifestyle. Truffles, both black and white, grow in profusion in the forests, Croatia’s most innovative wine makers are found here, and every farmer makes sheep's cheeses, olive oil and prsut (the distinctive local version of prosciutto).

Mediaeval hilltop villages, each with a fresco-filled 12C - 15C church, are linked by ancient paths across karst upland and through oak forests and meadows. We begin our journey by the sea in Opatija and complete it in Zagreb, staying in a 5 star belle-époque hotel, originally built to accommodate Orient Express passengers.

TRIP ITINERARY

DAY 1

D included

After meeting at Zagreb airport in the early afternoon, we have a scenic drive (2 hours) west towards Opatija, gateway to Istria and once the favoured Adriatic resort of the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph. Our 4 star historic hotel is on the seafront and has a well-regarded restaurant.

DAY 2

B, L, D included

We follow the coastal path leading from our hotel past the botanical gardens and fin-de-siècle villas of Opatija to the village of Lovran and visit the 14C church of St. George which contains unusual 15C frescoes. After lunch in a small fishing village we enjoy the hotel gardens, have a swim in the pool or enjoy the spa facilities before an elegant dinner by the sea.

DAY 3

B, L, D included

Moving into the interior of the Istrian peninsula, we enjoy superb views as we cross a high limestone plateau on foot, then drop down to the fortified village of Roc to see early fresco fragments in the chapel of St Roche. We walk a section of the ‘Glagolitic Way’ (celebrating an ancient Slavonic script) to the village of Hum (officially the smallest ‘town’ in the world), where 17 inhabitants enjoy a 1,000 year architectural and civic heritage. After lunch in a traditional konoba (inn) we walk up to the church of St Hieronymous which contains interesting 12C Byzantine frescoes. Our ultimate destination today is the hilltop town of Motovun - we walk round the Venetian 14C battlements on arrival, settle into our comfortable 3 star hotel on the chestnut tree- filled square and have our first taste of white truffles at dinner.

DAY 4

B, L, D included

A morning’s walk on a marvellous ridge across the heart of Istria leads us to the splendidly sited mediaeval village of Draguc where we see the frescoes in the little chapel of St. Roche. After a rustic lunch in a village perched at 500 m, with views for miles, the afternoon is free to explore Motovun’s mediaeval charms (including the parish church to a design by Andrea Palladio), buy presents to take home in the truffle shops, or relax in the indoor pool in our hotel. At dinner we may sample black truffles with hand - rolled fuži pasta, truffles blended into rich chicken liver paté, and more truffles grated onto duck breast with celeriac mash.

DAY 5

B, L, D included

We follow a woodland path, glowing with autumn colours, to the Chapel of our Lady of the Rocks near Beram, where the frescoes, dating from 1475, vividly depict the Adoration of the Magi. After sampling a typical Balkan grill for lunch, we drive to the village of Oprtalj to see more beautifully preserved frescoes in the 15C St. Mary’s church, then proceed on foot to the picturesque hilltop village of Grožnjan, well known for its artists and Summer Music School. We taste Istrian wines - Malvazija and Teran - in a rock cut cellar before dinner in a famous restaurant specialising in white truffle and mushroom dishes.

DAY 6

B, L, D included

Paths through vineyards and beech woods bring us to the frescoed Romanesque Church of St. Barnabas in Vižinada, then we drive to the nearby village of Brtonigla for a Sunday lunch of fresh fish, potatoes, tomatoes, squid and onions cooked together in a special cripnja pot on an open fire. Continuing to Rovinj on the Adriatic, a Venetian port for centuries, we walk through narrow cobbled lanes to our antique-filled 4 star hotel in the converted 17C Bishop's Palace.

DAY 7

B, L, D included

After a leisurely breakfast, a local ferry takes us from the fishing harbour over to Crveni Otok (Red Island) for a morning strolling by the sea and swimming in the gin clear water. The afternoon is free for exploring the well-preserved historic centre of Rovinj, dominated by the cathedral dedicated to St. Euphemia, a sixth-century martyr who was thrown to the lions in Constantinople. An aperitivo by the water at sunset precedes dinner, perhaps a traditional Istrian fish stew with polenta, followed by rozata, a Croatian pudding with rosewater.

DAY 8

B, L, D included

En route to Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, we walk for a couple of hours in the remote Risnjak National Park, close to the border with Slovenia and still home to bears, wolves and lynx, before a lunch of game and mushroom specialities in a forest inn. On arrival we settle into the meticulously restored Regent Esplanade Hotel (5 star), a belle-époque Art Nouveau classic, formerly an Orient Express overnight halt.

DAY 9

B, L, D included

A day to explore Zagreb, taking the historic funicular up to the most ancient part of the city and visiting St. Catherine’s church, with its richly stuccoed pink and white Baroque interior, the magnificent cathedral of St. Stephen, the traditional flower and vegetable markets and the delightful sculpture museum in the Meštrovic atelier. Our farewell dinner in the 19C Art Pavilion recalls an era of imperial elegance.

DAY 10

B included

There is time in the morning to visit the Botanical Gardens and the intriguing Mimara Museum before an airport transfer concludes the holiday.

Price includes:

All accommodation for Days 1 through 10 on a double shared basis

All meals with wine at lunches and dinners, other than those excepted in the daily notation

All land and sea transportation as described except during free periods

All entrance and sightseeing fees as described except during free periods

Gratuities for hotel and restaurant staff

Visa and Health Requirements

Visitors from the EU and the US currently require a valid passport, but not a visa, for entry to Croatia. If you are a national of any other country, please check visa regulations with your nearest Embassy of Croatia.

At present there are no specific and compulsory health requirements for entry to Croatia but we recommend that you also check the advice given to travellers by the Department of Health and the FCO.

Insurance

It is essential, and a condition of booking, that you protect yourself with a suitable travel insurance policy as soon as you book a trip. Follow this link for information on a policy available to UK residents.

If you are already insured or a non-UK resident, please inform us of your policy at the time of booking.