DAY 1
L, D included
After meeting at Izmir airport by midday, we have an hour’s drive to our small, well-appointed country hotel, with antiques and a beautiful pool. We have a local walk in the nearby olive groves in the afternoon and dinner brings a first taste of the rich array of traditional meze, accompanied by very good Turkish wines from the surrounding area.
DAY 2
B, L, D included
We have a gentle mornings walk in the surrounding countryside and time to relax by the pool before lunch. Once the crowds have dispersed, we visit Ephesus for a whole afternoon’s guided tour of this magnificent site, the largest and best-preserved ancient city in the eastern Mediterranean. It is especially noted for the splendid 2nd century Library of Celsus (where little owls can often be found in the scroll niches) and our visit also includes the excavated town houses with impressive mosaics and frescoes.
DAY 3
B, L, D included
This morning we journey by private boat (given good weather) along the coast and between the island of Samos and the Dilek peninsula to visit the site of Priene, beautifully set below Mt. Mykale. Priene reached its zenith circa 300BC - Alexander the Great stayed there during the Siege of Miletus - and we see the remains of the Temple of Athena and the Council Chamber. After a swim and a picnic we return to our hotel by road, pausing for a walk in the Dilek National Park (noted for its wildflowers and butterflies) en route.
DAY 4
B, L, D included
In the period between Alexander the Great and the Roman domination of Asia Minor, Pergamon was enormously wealthy, with a library rivalling that of Alexandria, thanks to their discovery that parchment (pergamen) could be made from animal hides and not exclusively from papyrus. We reach the site by a 2.5 hour scenic drive and explore on foot at a relaxed pace, seeing the marble-columned Temple of Trajan and the fine theatre built into the steep hillside. Wheatears of several species are common, blue rock thrushes sing from the tops of columns and wildflowers carpet the site. The views are memorable as we walk down through the ruins to the town to visit both the excellent museum and nearby Asclepieum, where the great physician Galen laid the foundations of western medicine in the second century AD. At our hotel for the next 4 nights, well-appointed rooms in the restored farmhouse have individual character, and our very welcoming hosts create a charming house party atmosphere.
DAY 5
B, L, D included
A full day’s circular walk from the village, with a donkey carrying our picnic, takes us through olive groves vivid with flowers and views down to the Gulf of Edremit. We ascend through natural pine forest on a good track up to the old nomadic grazing land, looking out for birds such as the endemic Kruper’s nuthatch and Syrian woodpeckers, while red-rumped swallows fly overhead. There are splendid views across to the Greek island of Lesbos as we descend, and patches of wild asparagus, helleborines and orchids. Our hotel is noted for its light and fresh approach to Turkish cuisine, making full use of the local produce (including wild herbs from Mt Ida), and those who wish have the opportunity to participate in a cookery lesson - preparing dishes such as aubergine stuffed with pinenuts, rice and raisins, or lamb baked with tomatoes, white beans and fresh herbs.
DAY 6
B, L, D included
Even breakfast is a gastronomic experience in our hotel - fresh village yoghurt with rose petal jam; home baked bread dipped in zatar (ground sesame and watermelon seeds) and their own olive oil; omelettes with finely chopped fresh herbs from the garden; fresh black mulberry juice and, of course, delicious Turkish coffee. Thus fortified, we visit a colourful local market en route to the dramatic hilltop site of Assos, where Aristotle studied in the 4th century BC and St Paul met up with St Luke in 55 AD. We see the 6th century Temple of Athena then admire the spectacular views over the Gulf of Edremit. We have lunch by the sea in a small local restaurant and have the opportunity to swim in the Aegean before returning to our hotel.
DAY 7
B, L, D included
The southwestern flanks of the Mt. Ida massif are scored by deep gorges and today, partly on foot and partly by landrover, we explore the sacred mountain, search for wild flowers and drive (weather permitting) to the summit (1774m) where the nomads hold their summer festival. Perhaps we shall find paeonies in the forest, the rare saxifraga sancta, cushion thyme or wild white roses - and birds (especially birds of prey which use the thermals above Mt Ida to gain height for their journey north). We return to our hotel for aperitifs and a last memorable dinner together on the terrace.
DAY 8
B included
After breakfast, often accompanied by the singing of nightingales, we transfer to Izmir airport for flights home.