Trieste and Slovenia: Walking in an undiscovered corner of Europe

TRIESTE and SLOVENIA: Walking in an undiscovered corner of Europe

Wedged between the Italian border and the Julian Alps, Slovenia is one of Europe’s smallest and least known countries. Our journey reveals dramatic karst scenery, picturesque traditional farming, Baroque and Gothic architectural treasures, undisturbed forests - and a stable, prosperous young nation that has always looked to the west for its cultural and economic inspiration.

We begin our exploration in Aquileia, in Italy, a great Roman city, whose Patriarch was a major influence on Slovenia for centuries. Piran, on Slovenia’s Adriatic coast, was Venetian for over 500 years and it remains a gem of Venetian Gothic architecture. Journey’s end is Trieste, Italy’s most enigmatic city, the grand seaport of the Austro-Hungarian empire and place of exile for James Joyce for 13 years.

TRIP ITINERARY

DAY 1

D included

After meeting at Trieste’s small airport in the early afternoon, we have a 15-minute transfer to our comfortable (family run) 3 star hotel in Aquileia. Once settled in, we stroll over to the next-door Basilica, one of the most remarkable in Italy. Founded in the 4C AD and rebuilt after Attila the Hun burnt it in 452, the church has remained a superbly unadorned, lofty Romanesque structure, with a fine 14C Gothic ship's keel ceiling. Astonishingly, the vivid mosaic floor is the largest known Palaeo-Christian mosaic in Western Europe. Dinner is a memorable 5 course reconstruction of a Roman feast.

DAY 2

B, L, D included

This morning we visit the excellent archaeological museum before crossing the border into Slovenia (just minutes away) and travelling to the original home of the world-famous Lipizzaner horses, founded in 1580. We tour the stud farm, seeing the foals in their paddock, picnic under the ancient oaks, then watch a display of the Classical Riding School. We continue by road but alight to walk through beech forest to a traditional Slovenian farmhouse, our welcoming home for the next three nights. Our wooden-beamed rooms are spacious and comfortable (4 ‘Apple’ rating), all with en-suite modern bathrooms and the atmosphere is peaceful and rural.

DAY 3

B, L, D included

Following a wine trail today we walk through the terraced vineyards - limestone soils and a sunny sub-Alpine climate create ideal conditions for light reds and high quality whites - picnicking en route at a pilgrimage church with wide views. Descending to the river, in Novo Mesto we visit the excellent museum (the section on the Partisan resistance is especially interesting) and the Chapter church of St. Nicholas which has an altar painting of the saint by Tintoretto. Dinner at the farm is typical Slovenian home cooking - fresh garden salad, homemade soup, grilled trout from their own stream and gibanica (a delicious cake filled with poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, sultanas & cheese).

DAY 4

B, L, D included

A dirt road takes us up to the start of a circular walk in the ancient beech and oak forests along the mountain border with Croatia, passing some interesting Cold War relics on the way. Down in the fertile valley where the 15C Carthusian monastery of Pleterje still functions, we picnic at an outdoor museum with many traditional wooden buildings, then visit the Slovenian art collection in the fine setting of a nearby 13C monastery. Dinner features a Balkan style grill and Cvicek, a light dry red wine unique to Slovenia.

DAY 5

B, L, D included

We walk through meadows and on paths lined with walnut and mulberry trees to a mediaeval village on an island in the river, then visit the fascinating regional museum in the 16C Renaissance castle - the frescoed ballroom is particularly impressive. After lunch we continue into Ljubljana where our 4 star hotel is a splendid Art Nouveau building in the historic centre (with an indoor swimming pool). Ljubljana is a charming small capital, with many quaint bridges, lively cafes and Baroque facades lining the river and an orientation walk before dinner soon gives us our bearings.

DAY 6

B, D included

A free day to explore Ljubljana, perhaps beginning with the Castle Tower and ramparts. A major focus for the day is the work of the great Slovenian 20C architect, Jože Plecnik. Between 1921 and 1957 Plecnik single-handedly transformed Ljubljana, adding his eclectic signature to everything he designed - his influences included Classical Greek and Roman architecture and Islamic, Egyptian, Folklore and Byzantine motifs. A wine tasting before dinner introduces some of Slovenia’s award-winning wines.

DAY 7

B, L, D included

En route to the Adriatic coast we walk on the limestone Karst plateau, a distinctive zone of upper levels giving wide views contrasted with dramatic gorges. Since the Bronze Age, man has built fortresses here and we visit one of the most extraordinary, a Romanesque church surrounded by high mediaeval walls and towers (protection against the Turkish invasions) with its interior entirely covered by vivid 15C frescoes. We continue to Piran, redolent of 5 centuries of Venetian rule and a World Heritage site. We visit the Maritime Museum, housed in a 17C palace, and walk round the harbour to our 3 star hotel - excellent seafood is bound to be on the menu this evening.

DAY 8

B, L, D included

Crossing the border back into Italy, we visit the karst Botanical gardens, then walk along the panoramic Napoleon’s path and have lunch in a Slow Food trattoria. We board an old-fashioned trolley for the journey down into Trieste and walk through the intact 18C centre with its gilt and dark wood-panelled cafes (the home of Illy coffee) to arrive at the magnificent, sea-fronting, principal piazza, lined with palaces including our celebrated historic 4 star hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free in which to trace James Joyce's years in Trieste (large parts of both ‘The Dubliners’ and ‘Ulysses’ were written here) and dinner this evening incorporates an informal wine tasting in a well-known enoteca.

DAY 9

B, D included

On a guided morning walk we explore Trieste’s Roman amphitheatre and forum and visit the early Cathedral of San Giusto with its remarkable 13C mosaics. The remainder of the day is free for visiting the city’s galleries and museums and seeing the multi-creed heritage of places of worship, including the Syrian influenced Synagogue, the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral and the richly decorated Greek Orthodox church. Our farewell dinner reflects the cosmopolitan air of this noticeably different Italian city.

DAY 10

B included

Our visit concludes with a half hour transfer to the airport.

Price includes:

All accommodation for Days 1 through 10, on a twin shared basis

All meals (with wine at lunches and dinners) as listed in the daily notation

All land transportation in a private vehicle as described except during free periods

All entrance and sightseeing fees except during free periods

Ticket for the Lipizzaner Riding School presentation

Wine tastings in Slovenia and Trieste

Gratuities for hotel and restaurant staff

Visa and Health Requirements

Visitors from the EU and the US currently require a valid passport, but not a visa, for entry to Italy and Slovenia. If you are a national of any other country, please check visa regulations with your nearest Embassies of Italy and Slovenia.

At present there are no specific and compulsory health requirements for entry to Italy and Slovenia. Residents of countries in the EU can only claim free (emergency) medical treatment in Italy and Slovenia by presenting their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which is issued in the UK by the Department of Health. You may also wish to check the advice given to travellers by the FCO.

Insurance

It is essential, and a condition of booking, that you protect yourself with a suitable travel insurance policy as soon as you book a trip. Follow this link for information on a policy available to UK residents.

If you are already insured or a non-UK resident, please inform us of your policy at the time of booking.