DAY 1
D included
A spectacular flight over the Himalayas on Druk (Dragon) Air brings us into Paro airport and a step back in time. Many people still wear national dress, oxen work the fields and the national sport of archery is practiced on flat meadows around the town. We explore a mediaeval watchtower housing the national Museum of Bhutan and the imposing fortress Rinpung Dzong, dating from 1645, before 1.5 hours’ drive takes us to Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan, and our hotel for 2 nights.
DAY 2
B, L, D included
The textile museum in Thimpu is worth visiting, as is the craft market and huge gold Buddha statue on the hillside. We wander through the atmospheric weekend market, where locals sell their vegetables, fruit and cheese, and visit the peaceful Changankha monastery.
DAY 3
B, L, D included
Following the sole, narrow paved road in Bhutan, we gradually ascend through chir pine forest to Dochu La (pass) at 10,450 ft, with 108 Buddhist monuments known as chortens and a breath-taking vista of Himalayan peaks. The forest becomes more luxuriant and the landscape wilder as we descend to Punakha (4,160 ft) on an afternoon walk down to the river, where white-capped and plumbeous water redstarts dart across the clear water. Our hotel for 2 nights is set in pretty gardens and enjoys panoramic views.
DAY 4
B, L, D included
We cross a narrow suspension bridge on foot to visit the enormous Pungthang Dechen Dzong, with its golden spires and busy monastic life, then walk through paddyfields up to the 15th century temple of Chime Lhakhang, encircled by small prayer wheels and dedicated to the legendary lama, Drukpa Kun-le, known as ‘the Divine Madman’.
DAY 5
B, L, D included
A spectacularly scenic drive takes us deep into central Bhutan, over the Pele La (11,000 ft) and down into Trongsa which boasts the largest dzong in the kingdom, the ancestral home of the Royal family.
DAY 6
B, L, D included
We visit the new Museum of the Royal Family, reached by an optional steep walk or a drive, and meet some very friendly monks before lunch. Crossing a final high pass, the Yotong La, we descend through stunning scenery into the glaciated Bumthang valley (8,450 ft), the cultural heartland of Bhutan, pausing en route to see traditional village weaving and to walk paths through superb stands of hemlock trees. Considered a sacred area and very little visited by outsiders, life here has remained virtually unchanged for centuries, with agriculture and religious festivals marking the rhythm of each year.
DAY 7
B, L, D included
Setting off on foot we search for the elusive ibisbill on the river banks and Himalayan red deer in the meadows, watch sheep’s cheese being made, see traditional watermills in action grinding buckwheat and cross a footbridge bright with prayer flags as we make our way to the magnificently decorated monastery of Kurje Lhakhang. After lunch, we also explore the Jakar dzong, ‘The Fortress of the White Bird’ and the most revered and ancient of Bumthang’s temples, the 7th century Jampa Lhakhang.
DAY 8
B, L, D included
Exploring the remote Tang Valley, we visit a nunnery and an interesting Heritage House. There is an optional (45 mins) walk up to Kunzangdrak monastery, to observe the monastic life. We have the chance to visit a secondary school before returning to our hotel. Dinner tonight may feature momos, the Himalayan dumplings filled with cheese and vegetables.
DAY 9
B, L, D included
Returning slowly back over the mountains on a morning’s drive (5 hours), we break the journey with pauses to look out for Himalayan griffon vultures and grey langur monkeys, to photograph the many stands of prayer flags and chortens along the route, and to walk especially scenic sections, before reaching our simple riverside lodge in the afternoon.
DAY 10
B, L, D included
Colourful local festivals are very much part of life in Bhutan and today we travel to watch the festivities held to celebrate the annual return of the black-necked cranes from their summer breeding grounds high on the Tibetan plateau. They are held in the Gangtey Gonpa Monastery, founded in 1613, and involve traditional dancing in special costumes, music and singing and drinking butter tea and rice wine. In the afternoon, we walk a nature trail contouring around the side of the Phobjika valley.
DAY 11
B, L, D included
We return over the high passes to the quiet capital, Thimpu, where we visit the National Institute of Traditional Arts and Crafts and Tashi Chodzong, the grand seat of the Bhutan government, with a series of ornately carved courtyards decorated with striking murals and relief sculptures. There is time to shop for handicrafts, especially woven silk, tangkha scrolls and masks.
DAY 12
B, L, D included
A memorable walk (or horse ride) up to Taktsang, the Tiger’s Nest, follows the ancient pilgrimage path with lovely views. The monastery was founded by the legendary Guru Padma Sambhava, who flew from eastern Bhutan on the back of a flaming tigress to subdue demons opposed to the spread of Buddhism.
DAY 13
B included
We depart, reluctantly, on the morning flight, seeing Bhutan’s sacred mountain, Jomolhari, and the snow-covered Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Mt. Everest on what must be the world’s most spectacular plane journey.